El Acebo was not a common stop – most pilgrims keep going to Molinaseca or even Ponferrada for the night.  After the harrowing descent down that rocky trail, I was glad that we had planned to stay there for the night.

Our Inn at El Acebo

I’m not the only pilgrim who has warned about that stretch of rocks coming into town. Lee said that she overhead the proprietress of our lodging telling pilgrims that those rocks continue – El Acebo was only halfway down the great descent, which ends in Molinaseca. She advised them to stay on the asphalt road instead. Research on the internet gave me the same advice.  And so, on this, the next day, I resisted every sign that invited me to join a Camino path.  Instead I walked on the asphalt country road all the way to Ponferrada.  I was not alone in that decision.

Asphalt Road to Ponferrada

Our hotel in Ponferrada was reasonably close to the old part of town.  After we had settled in and showered, we went to visit the Basilica Nuestra Senora and a fortress that served as the quarters for the Knights Templar.   The latter was a military group that defended Catholicism against its enemies in the 12th century. But it was after lunch, the weather was extremely hot, and we were both dog tired.  After a brief  tour of each, we were happy to make our way back to the air-conditioned hotel room.

Sometimes the Camino gives you a view that is itself a metaphor for the Walk

The following morning, Lee left with me early.  She

Sculpture Outside the Basilica Nuestra Senora

had wanted to get our laundry done in a same-day service through the next hotel.  She dropped me off at a place to pick up the Camino and we went our separate ways.  While the day entailed a long distance, the terrain was fairly flat, and I’ve learned that you can walk an awfully long time on a flat, dirt trail.

Our accommodation for the next evening was just outside the small picturesque village of Villafranca del Bierzo.  By Camino standards, it was fairly luxurious.  I felt I needed that.  We didn’t go off the property, eating there, and me trying to rest my body, which was starting to feel the effects of this seventh straight day of walking.