The first stage of the Camino, the Route de Napoleon, has the pilgrim walk directly from SJPP to Roncesvalles, a distance of 25 km.  That route leads directly over the Pyrenees, with an ascent to 1,450 meters above sea level, followed by a milder descent.   It is deemed the most difficult of all the stages on the Camino Frances – the walking time alone is eight hours not counting breaks – and you encounter it on the first day!

I opted for the alternate “valley” route that would take me “around” the mountains and also split the stage into two days.  I had read too many accounts of pilgrims suffering blisters and other leg injuries on this stage, which dogged them for the rest of their time on the Camino.  In so doing, I accepted that I would forego some of the most spectacular views on the Camino Frances.  So be it.  The split-stage would also allow me to acclimatize myself to walking with the pack and handling the smaller ascents and descents that I would encounter throughout.  Valcarlos, where I would spend my first night, was a mere 12km up the road, something I figured I could easily do in 3-4 hours.  As a result, I took a late breakfast, walked around SJPP a bit, and importantly got my credencial its first official stamp at the Pilgrims Welcome Office.  Today would be easy, less taxing than walking 18 holes of golf.

I was wrong.  Walking “around” mountains does not mean that you escape climbing them.  Very quickly, I realized the impact of elevation on walking speed.  All my walking calculations from walking the flat C&O canal route near Washington, about 2.5 miles or 4 km per hour, were thrown off.

The “valley” route apparently meant you had beautiful views of the valley

Plus, I was learning how to walk with walking poles.  These proved to be invaluable, particularly on descents, but they took some time today getting used to.    It’s like learning how to dance, with the right pole and left foot extending, and then the left pole and the right foot.  I think that’s how it should go.  I’ll need to review a YouTube video later.  I must have been quite a sight.  Not to mention the fact that I don’t have a simple walking stick.  I have Black Diamond, lightweight, carbon-based trekking poles.  These go along with my Columbia moisture-wicking tee shirt, my CoolMax socks, Salome hiking boots, and Osprey backpack.  Some pilgrim!  Oufit by Gucci.  Fortunately, the only witness to this spectacle at the time was a single cow who, after looking for a time, nodded and walked away, as if to say to himself, “I’ve seen this before.”

Bulls: running in Pamplona is in their future

Because of the late start and my taking the valley route, I saw few people, mostly couples including ones from Denmark and Spain with whom I chatted some, all much younger than me.  The first day took me through rolling countryside and farmland, small hamlets, and even the parking lot of a modern shopping center.  In fact, that shopping center marked the border of France with Spain.  No walls here.

Valcarlos in my sight!

Finally, about six hours after I started, I limped into Valcarlos and made it to the small bed and breakfast that would serve as my lodging for the night.  A shower and good midday meal, with fresh locally grown vegetables, revived me some, but I lay in bed that night worried and wondering, frankly, if I was up to this.